Gooseneck options

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Nathan
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Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Fri Mar 06, 2015 5:11 pm

I'm ordering a 40' gooseneck trailer for hauling ATVs and occasionally a 40' shipping container. I'm trying to decide if I want twin #12,000 dual wheel axles ($12,000 trailer cost) or triple #7,000 single wheel axles ($10,000 trailer cost). This isn't a price point purchase so I don't mind spending the extra money on the heavier axles if I will benefit from them. I'm really just trying to determine what would suit me better. I don't expect to ever reach anywhere near the full GVWR of #25,000 of the trailer (additional over axle ratings due to being gooseneck thus load bearing). I like the durability factor knowing that I'm using something at 50% of its rating than at 75% as this seems like to me to be a way to ensure longevity, but if its a pointless expense I won't bother.
Recommendations? Thanks.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Pickwick » Fri Mar 06, 2015 6:05 pm

Well, I do some hauling of back hoes and tractors. Nothing as heavy as you, but I still think I'd go with the heavier axle. I think the same way as you about the durability factor.

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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby chris_t » Fri Mar 06, 2015 9:42 pm

go tandem not tri, easier on the trailer and truck. in tight turns you'll find yourself dragging one axle sideways anyway.

i'd always go heavier rated axles even if you choose to go tri axle, get the heavier rated axles.

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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby yankeejib » Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:00 pm

chris_t wrote:i'd always go heavier


I've heard this somewhere else before.....
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby chris_t » Sat Mar 07, 2015 1:47 pm

yankeejib wrote:
chris_t wrote:i'd always go heavier


I've heard this somewhere else before.....

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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Sat Mar 07, 2015 2:28 pm

chris_t wrote:bones are for dogs


Woof.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby LWP » Sat Mar 07, 2015 4:16 pm

Triple axles will ride smoother, but be sure to have plenty of excess capacity in the axles and tires. Your intended load is light enough, you are not hauling bulldozers or heavy machinery. Maintenance and dealing with flats is easier on single wheels versus double. Six tires is cheaper than eight when replacing, if they are similar.

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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Wed Mar 11, 2015 8:26 pm

I would rather have the heavier axles than the extra axle. You never know what you might want to haul in the future. What brand trailer are you looking at? Dad bought a new goose neck flatbed a couple years ago. It was a Gator made trailer http://www.gatormade.com
Dad's had lots of different trailer sizes, makes, types, and hitches for his buisness. But that is the hands down best trailer I have ever seen or used. Every thing from the fit and finish on the trailer, to all the thought and planning that went into the placement of the tire down points, tool box, steps!, grab handles!, work lights!, tail lights they can't tear up, a headache rack! All the stuff we didn't have on other trailers and took for granted this one came with them and in all the right places. Ours is a16k goose neck, I'm unsure of the length. Dad has been nothing but happy with it. We had it shipped to us from TN which they arranged. If you pm me your # of be happy to send you some pics of his. I haven't had to post pics from my phone yet.
http://www.gatormade.com/gooseneck-trailers/
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Wed Mar 11, 2015 8:37 pm

Rodeo Mike wrote:What brand trailer are you looking at?

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I took delivery today of a PJ 40' gooseneck with a 5' dovetail and oversize ramps (full 40' bed length with ramps up) on twin 12,000# dually axles with oil bath bearings. I've never towed a trailer this long before and I think I nearly took out several cars while turning just to get it from the dealership to my house. :D I won't even get into what it took to back this fucker into my back yard.

...I've got a learning curve to conquer.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Sat Mar 14, 2015 9:04 pm

Good looking trailer, oil bath bearings are a plus. Longer trailers are easier to back once you get the used to the amount of pull up to make your point.

I get a kick out of watching other folks try to back trailers. You can always tell from the start of they really know what they're doing. The ones that don't, always want to get as straight as they can. Instead of backing it in a curve. You have less pull up at the start and on bigger closed in trailers you can always see your target. I had to learn it early growing up, cause with dad's buiness most of his trailers were enclosed. Try backing one with a farm tractor and no mirrors. There's only one way to do it without spotters.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Sat Mar 14, 2015 9:07 pm

Oh, you putting a winch on it? Never know when one of your vehicles will break down. Then you can be your own wrecker!
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby i12flytoday » Mon Apr 06, 2015 3:51 pm

Nathan wrote:
Rodeo Mike wrote:What brand trailer are you looking at?

Image

I've never towed a trailer this long before and I think I nearly took out several cars while turning just to get it from the dealership to my house. :D I won't even get into what it took to back this fucker into my back yard.

...I've got a learning curve to conquer.


You should invite Ben out to get him to train you up. :grin:

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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:59 am

Rodeo Mike wrote:I get a kick out of watching other folks try to back trailers.

Then you would certainly enjoy the spectacle I put on backing a 40' trailer into a 20' wide yard with 16' of road without driving through my neighbors hard. It took inching forward and backward a couple dozen times. It's such a pain in the dick that I don't even want to use the trailer because I don't want to have to figure out how to get it back into my yard again.

I know the only way to beat this bitch is to just keep doing it enough times....it's just such a pain.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Tue Apr 07, 2015 10:01 am

Rodeo Mike wrote:Oh, you putting a winch on it? Never know when one of your vehicles will break down. Then you can be your own wrecker!

I've actually been searching for a winch to mount on the trailer. I'm trying to find a 115v winch with roughly 5,000# single line rating that I could double the cable on to pull 10,000# if necessary. I can buy a 12v 5,000# winch for under $500 but in 115v its at least $3,000. B(
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Tue Apr 07, 2015 10:02 am

i12flytoday wrote:You should invite Ben out to get him to train you up.

Textbook example of "amateurs teaching amateurs how to be amateurs". :D
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:25 pm

Nathan why do you want 115 volt? Do you plan on talking a generator with you everywhere? As far as backing the trailer into such a tight drive on a 2 lane road, I was in the same boat I couldn't make the turn in my first 2 1/2 ton truck due to the horrible turning radius. I ended up adding another culvert pipe to my driveway. It cost me less than $200 pipe, sand, and all.

Goose neck trailers have the advantage of a tighter backing radius, as you can get further under the trailer before you jack knife. Not every place can even a great backer get into without pulling up a couple times.

The trick is learning the correct amount of pull up from your target driveway for your trailer. That takes doing to figure it out. The more you do it the better you'll get. And you can back into a tighter spot than you can pull into.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:49 pm

Good info here, it's for a semi but it works the same as you have a long goose neck. This is exactly how I was taught at a young age.

Okay, so we know that practice makes perfect. And GOAL is important and can save your azz.

Now... let's address the basics (that your school didn't bother with.)

1) Always attack your parking "spot" whether at a dock or in a truckstop at a 45% angle with a view of it out your left side window/mirror.

2) Specifically... your TRAILER should be at a 45% angle, with your cab turned a bit to the left of that (NEVER to the right.)

3) You do this by "swooping" in from the right (trucks on your left) and just after your cab passes the "hole" you turn sharply to the right (to "SET" your tandems) and then turn your cab back to the left BEFORE you get so close to the trucks facing you to have any room to maneuver. At THIS point, you should have your trailer at a 45% angle to the hole, and your cab to the left of that.

4) Though it helps, it is not necessary to set your tandems all the way back. But... (and this is important...) don't be so close to the "hole" that you don't have room for the trailer "swing" discussed above. Likewise, as I said, leave room in front of your cab to "swing it out" to move the trailer away from the "nearside" truck fender.

5) BEFORE moving backwards, (actually while setting this up) center your steer tires and make sure you have all the room I mentioned in front of your cab... and behind your back doors. Your tandems (if at normal setting for weight,) should be at least 1.5 times the "swing" of your trailer from the front fender of the nearest (left side) truck fender.

6) Use VERY small steering movements to "guide" your left tandems around the fender of said truck, and don't worry too much if you oversteer. You can always pull up and correct it. (but, make SURE you know it!)

7) As the tandems work their way past the fender, start turning OUT of the steer 'cut." I.O.W. steer AWAY from the side of the truck you are looking at to your left. [turn the wheel to the LEFT gently.]

8: If you get too close, or can't make it around the fender, pull forward and try again. If too far away... and threatening the truck on your blindside (right,) pull forward and reset your steers to get in a little closer.

Some say (and I agree) that you should consider it "driving" the trailer into the hole.

If you're "driving a nail" and it gets a bit skewed on you, you "angle" the attack of the hammer. You don't overdo it and flatten the nail out on the other side... you just "nuance" it.

IF you are bumping a dock that will REQUIRE YOU to slide your tandems to the back... you might as well do it before you start. As was said... it will make it easer.

But, if you're trying to park in a truckstop... consider my method.

It's just geometry! Set the trailer at a 45% angle. Then.... guide it to a 90% angle.

As you slide it into the hole... you should be able to see the driver directly across from you giving you the thumbs up! Which is why you need a fair amount of room IN FRONT of your cab!

Good luck.... and PRACTICE!
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:34 pm

Rodeo Mike wrote:Nathan why do you want 115 volt? Do you plan on talking a generator with you everywhere?
I already do. I have a generator that mounts onto the upper bars of the hitch. With 115 volt I don't have to worry about keeping a battery charged or running heavy gauge wire back from my truck. Unless there is a simpler way?


The trick is learning the correct amount of pull up from your target driveway for your trailer. That takes doing to figure it out. The more you do it the better you'll get. And you can back into a tighter spot than you can pull into.
I seem to get a little better every time...I just hate doing the learning curve. 8)
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Sun Apr 12, 2015 11:35 am

Yeah there's a simpler way, mount a coach battery on the trailer close to the winch. Then a solar charger also to keep the battery up when not in use. Also hook up the 12 volt accessory pin in your 7 plug trailer connector to the said coach battery to charge it while hooked to the truck. I set my dad's trailer up that way. I'll try to take a pic and post it later.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Sun Apr 12, 2015 12:37 pm

Rodeo Mike wrote:mount a coach battery on the trailer close to the winch. Then a solar charger also to keep the battery up when not in use. Also hook up the 12 volt accessory pin in your 7 plug trailer connector to the said coach battery to charge it while hooked to the truck. I set my dad's trailer up that way. I'll try to take a pic and post it later.
Looking forward to seeing pictures of your design. I need to fabricate up a winch plate to mount to the trailer. Any designs you are aware of that I can copy? I suppose I could take plate and weld it to my hitch risers, but don't mind investing the time to build something with a little awesome in it. 8)
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby mattinglyt » Sun Apr 12, 2015 7:16 pm

Nathan, made a mount for my winch so I could put it in a 2" receiver on the trailer or on the back of the truck. That way I don't have to be stuck with it only in one place. I have plans to put a 2" receiver on the front of my truck too. I also keep a spare battery so that I can move it to the trailer or back of the truck to have the power where I need it.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Nathan » Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:16 pm

Ted,
That sounds like a great idea! Have you any pictures of your setup? As for the front hitch, add a Ranch Hand bumper to the front of your truck. They come with the receiver already on it.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:46 pm

Dad's winch came with the hitch plate, and the winch plates that have the 2 in reciver adapter are readily available. I bolted the directly to the deck. On the underside the bolts I did go thru a 8 in x 2 in piece if channel iron about 4ft long. It just did fit between the chassis rails. They've pulled lots of heavy stuff up the trailer. Just male sure to cover the winch Or it will lock the winch drum engage knob like theirs did. Originally they just used a big Rubbermaid container upside down with a bungee. Spelled fine until it dry rotted about a year ago. Then they were to lazy to get another, so it rusted the drum lock.
I've got the pic, now to upload it.
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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:57 pm

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Re: Gooseneck options

Postby Rodeo Mike » Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:58 pm

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